Mae Hong Son Loop, Golden Triangle, Nan Loop
Finally! I’ve had this ride on my bucket list for a long time. Perhaps I’ve been pressed with time, had not found the right group or the stars just did not align for the trip.
But now, I am taking the time, riding solo and enjoying the adventure!
Mae Hong Son Loop
Mae Hong Son by the western, Myanmar facing border of northern Thailand is the most mountainous region in Thailand and named one (yes, yet another one) of the best motorcycle roads in the world.
Well, I can wholeheartedly confirm that it is a fantastic ride and when it comes to Thailand, Mae Hong Son Loop is literally above the rest – it actually takes you on top of the tallest peak in Thailand, Doi Ithanon!
If you are looking for the two wheels for your ride, I would suggest you head for C&P Big Bike rental shop in Chiang Mai. They have a wide selection of bikes in very good repair, as much as I could see when looking around in the shop. My V-Strom was brand new and when picking up my bike, service was excellent! My earlier correspondence with Ammy was quick in English and Mr Lan got my bike ready on time and as agreed. This is NOT paid promotion but my bid to answer the question everyone seems to be asking – where to get a reliable bike.
The ride on Mae Hong Son Loop usually starts from Chiang Mai and is a multi-day trip. Unless you just power through the route, I would suggest at least four days for just the MHS loop. The distance of the simple MHSLoop from CM to CM as such is not very long, only some 650 km from/to CM but there is a lot to take in, places to see and places to stop en route. Waterfalls, Caves, Elephants, the Kayan Long Neck people from Myanmar, coffee houses and great restaurants on the road side, nice resorts or just admiring the views. Even some party spots for the western tourist, such as Pai. For reference, my trip was 1500km in nine days during which I also did the Golden Triangle and Nan loop. I rode the MHS loop in clockwise direction.
Thailand is rather flat and Doi Ithanon earns the title of the highest peak by reaching the dizzying height of 2,565 meters above sea level. When I say flat, I mean it doesn’t have really high mountains but I do not mean flat as not being hilly, which this road really is. Just up or down AND left or right. Not much flat or even straight sections on these roads!
Due to being so hilly, I feel that the road is best enjoyed with a bike which has a bit more power than an average small scooter. Having said that, there are also a lot of small scooters on the road, ridden mainly by youngsters, even couples often two-up. Presumably more holiday-makers than bikers. I am sure they enjoy their ride – like even those with a bicycle do. But as you are reading my blog, I believe you may be a more experienced biker and to truly get the most out of the route, I recommend something more suitable for the hilly, smooth tarmac. In my case I rode a 2024 model Suzuki V-Strom 650XT adventure bike and it was perfect for the road.
Before my ride I read many articles warning how treacherous the road is. Now having recommended a more powerful bike, it obviously comes with a health warning! As always, if you take a motorbike of any kind, on this road you must be able to handle the bike in steep uphill / downhill turns and be able to break hard while doing so. The roads can be tricky as such and it will be a long day if you feel uncomfortable with the bike which you are riding on. I certainly found the roads really enjoyable and in very good condition.
The roads are mainly very good with smooth tarmac. Being Thailand, the dry season is preferable for riding as the wet roads get really slippery. Particularly after the wet season, there is a lot of vegetation on the road, moss etc, and it does get slippery. In places there is also some infamous red clay on the road, which the rain has flushed from the hills. The clay is like soap when wet!
Best time to ride would be the winter, from November to February. After rainy season and before it really gets hot. I was there in early November, just after the rainy season and was very lucky with the weather, with only an occasional five-minute shower, which I managed to escape by taking a short coffee break when the rain was approaching. The roads were virtually empty and a lot to choose from where to stay overnight. The peak tourist season starts by December and I suspect there is a lot more traffic on the roads then.
Now that I have recommended Mae Hong Son Loop, you can explore the internet for all the details, if you fancy. There are a lot of blogs around about the loop. They will explain to you in great detail how the loop “should” be travelled. You will just need to keep your wits about and read between the lines and project it all to your experience level and what you really wish to do. Mae Hong Son Loop is great fun and caters for hard core bikers as well as leisurely tourism. So do not be put off by adventure stories about the treacherous roads – it will be an adventure though…
Some pointers – my pennies worth
When riding clockwise, you will find Doi Ithanon on your first day. You will also get some first tasters of the wavy roads to come as you continue. Do stop at some of the many waterfalls and enjoy the changing landscape. The waterfalls are clearly signposted from the main road but it is easy to miss a turn later, so pay attention. Otherwise you may end up on small dirt roads, like I did.
If you do get lost, you probably just end up to another place where you have not been before, perhaps see some interesting farms and animals (I saw some snakes!). Finding your way back is usually easy. Distances are short here, no need to worry if you make an unplanned detour – just turn back early enough before the terrain gets too muddy and tricky.
You will find several elephant sanctuaries, one kept by the Kayan (Karenni) Long Neck people originating from Myanmar. The Long neck women are wearing metal rings around their neck to create (the appearance) of a long neck. The metal rings are also worn around their shins and the explanation given is that they are a protection from tigers, which attack neck and legs.
As it was still low season and hotels reasonably priced, I stayed at a very nice Sibsan Resort & Spa in Maetang, right next to the elephants and the Kayan Long Neck people.
The roads are great but the very best curvy roads, I found, were from Mae Hong Song heading north (and Nan, see later in the post). I stayed at the Imperial Mae Hong Son Hotel, which had some old world charm. Pai is also where a lot of tourists come from CM to spend some good time. Pai is a small village/town with plenty of pubs and restaurants and accommodations to choose from.
The road from Pai towards CM is a hoot! Curve after curve going up or down!
Golden Triangle
If you have the time and do not need to rush back all the way to CM, turn north and ride along the Myanmar facing border and head for the Golden Triangle, or as the locals know it, Sop Ruak.
On the way to the Golden Triangle, I spent a night at Mae Salong and would recommend riding up to the town. Great curvy road with beautiful scenery on top from the town. Spending the night here gives you a full day next day to explore the border towns and the Golden Triangle.
The situation in Myanmar during the time of my visit did not allow crossing the border at Mae Sai, but that can quickly change, so you may want to try your luck. To cross to Myanmar you may want to walk as taking rental bikes across is not easy or even recommendable. Just make sure you have your original passport on you and it is not left with the bike rental. Usually the deal is that you need to leave your passport at the bike rental or leave a deposit, which you get back when returning your bike.
Golden Triangle with its opium heritage from the mid 20th century is a popular tourist spot where the borders of Myanmar, Thailand and Laos come together by the Ruak and Mekong rivers. Opium farming with its violent history is now gone and the main crops since the 1970’s include the less harmful but apparently also addictive coffee and tea.
Looking across to Laos, new high-rise buildings are being built and also the Thai side seems to be thriving. Things are changing quickly here. There are some really interesting museums worth a visit, which explain the growing of poppies and use of opium.
Apparently the number of Chinese tourists in increasing in the area as a lot of the souvenir memorabilia also has the Chinese flag printed on them. While China is not a country that has any land border here, they share the opium trading history.
Nana Loop – National Curvy Road number 3
If you are coming from the Golden Triangle as I was, head south along the Laos facing border and eventually inland for Nan, a lively town east of CM.
It is a good idea to take a hotel for at least two nights as the town has busy evening markets with great food and entertainment…
… but more importantly, you want to spend a day riding probably one of the best riding loops in Thailand to the east of the town. Roads include 1169, 1081, 1333 and 1257.
A wonderful day trip from Nan and a real biker’s gym! Curve after curve, so much so that the road heading east is a National Curvy
Road number 3! There even are tourist groups taking tour buses to see the road and standing in the middle of the road taking photos! They come up quite suddenly! A high vis man may be warning bikers and riders about them ahead!
The road starts as a wide and fast smooth tarmac curvy road. As you progress to the far end of the loop the road later gets narrower turning south and back west across the farming scenery and small villages to join again to the main road before heading back to Nan.
The Nan Loop was one of the highlights of my trip and now that you know about it, it should not be missed if you are ever that way!
Join the Magic Carpet Ride with me!
Mae Hong Son Loop AND Nan Loop in 20 mins