First Impressions of Sumatra and Medan

Flying into Medan with AirAsia was already an experience in itself. Even though I’ve flown with the same airline before, the routines now felt completely different. At the check-in counter, the scene was chaotic—people carrying more hand luggage than I thought possible, cramming bags and suitcases into the cabin while the plane was already full. Unlike most airlines today where you’re expected to pay with a credit card, on this particular route, onboard AirAsia only accepted cash—and only banknotes.

Medan

Arriving in Medan, the traffic was overwhelming. I’ve ridden in many Asian cities before, but this was on again different. Cars, trucks, and motorbikes flow together in every direction, seemingly without rules. Still, what stood out most wasn’t just the chaos, but the atmosphere.

To get to my hotel, I took a taxi from one of the many providers at the airport. Everything is negotiable and I got a good price from a young lady providing that I gave her a lift in the car, as her shift was just ending. Well, why not!

Indonesia is a Muslim-majority country, but the vibe is very different compared to Pakistan, for example. Here, women ride scooters confidently, wearing colorful headscarves, laughing, and chatting as they pass by. Families pile onto motorbikes—sometimes five people on a single scooter—while cars squeeze into parking lots with the help of whistle-blowing attendants guiding them to a free spot.

When I checked into my hotel, asked for a room with a window, and was warned about noise. I didn’t think much of it until the night came. Outside, whistles, horns, shouting, and engines blended into a constant roar. But instead of being annoying, it felt like part of the adventure—Medan’s soundtrack.

Getting on Two Wheels

The next morning, I picked up my ride—a brand-new Honda 160cc scooter, equipped with start-stop technology and ready for the road.

The guys at the rental shop were very friendly and curious about my trip. We chatted about Someday.bike, shared some stickers, and admired my Sumatra motorcycle shirt, one of which I left with them. Everything looked good for the journey ahead.

Leaving Medan, however, was brutal. It took nearly 90 minutes of battling through chaotic traffic before the city suddenly gave way to palm trees and jungle. The further I rode, the more the scenery shifted—lush greenery, village roads, and glimpses of rural Sumatra.

Into the Jungle: Bukit Lawang

My first real destination was Bukit Lawang, famous for its orangutans. Just as I arrived, two local guides noticed me turning the wrong way and came after me on a motorbike. Apparently I was not the first to make a wrong turn just there! They redirected me back toward the village tourist center – a small office, easily missed. I came here to see the orangutans in the wild, and soon I had arranged a jungle trek with one of the guides, who just saved me from riding past the village. Cost, about €50 for a guided hike.

The trek itself was tough. Slippery paths, steep climbs, and intense tropical heat made every step demanding. And I already had a tough ride behind me that day.

After hours of walking, it looked like I might not see any orangutans at all, which would have been very disappointing. My guide even admitted he had done hundreds of treks with only one time failing to spot them. We feared this might be the second.

But luck turned. On the way back, we suddenly came across a mother orangutan with her baby. Watching them swing through the trees was magical. We also spotted a rare monkey species found only in northern Sumatra. By the time we returned to the village, soaked in sweat and exhausted, the skies opened up with a massive thunderstorm—ending the day in true jungle fashion.

Up the Mountains: Berastagi

The following morning, I rode toward Berastagi, a mountain town sitting between two volcanoes. The climb was demanding, but rewarding. As I gained 900 meters in altitude, the temperature dropped from 34°C to a refreshing 23°C. For the first time in days, I felt cool air again.

I originally thought about pushing on toward Lake Toba the same day, but the intense riding took its toll. Riding in Indonesia is not about long distances—it’s about concentration. Every kilometer demands your full attention. Even a small mistake could be costly. So, I decided to stay overnight in Berastagi, found a cozy guesthouse, and enjoyed some excellent local coffee.

Lake Toba: Riding into the Caldera

From Berastagi, I set off to Lake Toba—the largest volcanic lake in the world, created by a super-eruption some 70,000 years ago. The ride started in heavy rain at just 20°C, but as I descended toward the lake, the weather changed. By the time I reached the ferry, the sun was out and the temperature had climbed back above 30°C.

Lake Toba is massive: 100 km long and 30 km wide. The ferry ride across to Samosir island was short but memorable. My 160cc scooter was too big (!) to fit neatly with the others, so the deckhands had to lift and maneuver it into place—a good reminder to keep your bike size reasonable when riding in Asia.

I stayed two nights by the lake, enjoying the slower pace. After the intensity of riding through Medan and the jungle, it felt good to rest. I picked a german owned hotel. Very indonesian with a hint of some european vibes (German bakery for one), makind the rest more comfortable for me.

Back to Medan

The ride back to Medan took over seven hours, with sudden tropical downpours along the way. My plan was to stay overnight somewhere along the way but I was in high spirits and continued to push forward despite the rain. By the time I rolled back into the city and returned my scooter, I was tired but happy.

That evening I had one of the best dinners on the trip and sleep was guaranteed! In the morning I pumped into some great kids and their teacher at an education fair in one of the shopping malls. Had some fun with them manipulating my sore muscles and an eye-spa!

Reflections

Riding in Sumatra is demanding, chaotic, and sometimes exhausting. But it’s also rewarding, beautiful, and full of unexpected encounters—from wild orangutans to new friends on ferries. I must say that the people I met were some of the nicest.

Medan to Lake Toba isn’t just a journey across northern Sumatra—it’s a once in a lifetime journey through noise, nature, and the raw energy of Sumatra. And for me, it was another unforgettable chapter of riding someday.

Watch the video! Also made a short video of the trip, which you can find here

Next Philippines. A hop and a skip to Angeles City and a jump to Boracay. But that’s another story…