Khunjerab Pass

The Pakistan – China border station in Khunjerab pass on Karakoram highway leads from Pakistan to China, on Karakoram Highway. Depending on the source and measurement point, it lies at around 4700 – 5000 meters altitude. From November to March the border is closed due to snow.

The border itself is an attraction and interesting as such. For us however, it was not the border but the ROAD leading there. Now it was truly the ride, not the destination!

The scenery on Karakoram Highway leading to the border from Hunza Nagar / Passu is just magnificent. Absolutely mesmerizing, as you will see on the video. Some scenes on the video look unreal and like they were put together from at least two clips, but it is all real as much as a video can be.

Never have I seen such sharp peaks, nor so many high mountains. Approaching the high peaks leaves one filled with awe from the first minutes on the road.

While we are on Karakoram proper, this is also the region where the the Himalayas, Karakoram and Hindu Kush mountain ranges come together with the highest peaks in the world.

• Himalayas  range over India, China, Tibet Nepal, Bhutan and Pakistan
• Karakoram ranges over China, India, Afghanistan, Tajikistan and Pakistan
• Hindu Kush ranges over Afghanistan, Tajikistan and Pakistan

Islamabad

The BIG day finally arrived and we were in Islamabad, Pakistan. Ready for our adventure ride in the Karakoram mountains and Northern Pakistan.

Our local contact Salman was at the airport to meet us and presented us the customary Pakistani flower leis, much like in Hawaii. Although I get the sense that this is where the similarities end.

Islamabad may not look like the most welcoming city in the intense heat of the summer and remembering its violent history, but the people we meet are extremely kind and ready to help us in all possible ways. We are now in an Islamic country and although we have two women in the group, the people we meet are virtually all men.

Notable exception to this is the quite amazing mosque, which we visited the first night. 

After settling into our hotel, it was time to give a closer look at our bikes. We saw them briefly on the arrival and with a closer inspection, they turned out even more challenging than originally thought. Knacked Suzuki 250’s, although clean and apparently serviced for the trip, held together partly with wire and duct tape – Well, we all know that wire and duct tape often do the job!

These were really not the kind of bikes we would choose  for the kind of trip we were about to embark. The bikes  may be great for commuting but are not designed for off-roading or long distance riding. None of the gauges on my bike worked and turn signals had a mind of their own. It was going to be a very Pakistani experience, also in respect of the bikes. A mechanic followed us along the route and his skills were needed on daily basis.

At this point it is also worth mentioning that  Salman received new bikes soon after our departure, better suited for off road riding as well. To my understanding, acquiring bikes of one’s desire is not easy in Pakistan and the Suzukis were the industry standard. On the other hand, the Suzukis were familiar to Salman and his mechanic. They knew the bikes inside-out and would be able to fix anything on the road.

Heading north: Islamabad – Naran – Gilgit

A chaotic first day riding, heading out of Islamabad in intense heat towards cooler air and the town of Naran, some 300 km north. A 12 hour day on the bikes getting used to the Pakistani road culture and the bikes with a temper of their own.

Most bikes had disc brakes in the front, some had only worn drums that were very difficult to control. Drum brakes slowed down the bike very little just before locking the wheel with a screeching sound. The result was two riders down the first day, luckily without any major injuries. Continue reading Karakoram Mountains and Northern Pakistan →