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The Great Madagascar Motorcycle Adventure Ride 2024

Map Africa and madagascarMadagascar!

Even the word Madagascar shouts out adventure! Madagascar is that mysterious island on the side of Africa, familiar from my childhood adventure books and board games!

Actually traveling there did not seem very likely to me, much less touring the island on a motorbike. But now it is becoming a reality!

How much more exited could one be?!?

Kleinbus at Madagascar

Our flight from Paris to Madagascar Antananarivo Ivato international airport arrived late in the evening.  First items on the arrival list are the usual hassles of queuing to customs, exchanging local currency and finding the right SIM card. This is a small airport, services are few and customers arrive in bulk when international flights arrive. Ours was the last landing for the day.

Antananarivo airport hall
Airport hall

Thankfully after the long flight, everything is easy to find, just need a bit of patience to get it all sorted. Money from the currency booth, (there is one ATM) and SIM-card from one of the two vendors.

Obtaining the SIM card takes a while, since they are not just handed over, but paperwork is meticulously prepared and the phone is also set up correctly to use the desired network.

It never seizes to amaze me how they  can take any phone in any language, navigate through the menus to the right place on the phone, set everything to use the local providers and finally activate the SIM with text messages. You just need make sure that the SIM covers the area you are about to travel, although the coverage was pretty good anywhere we went. 

Antananarivo view
Antananarivo view

The night is warm and taking in the first impressions of a new country is always memorable. We were now six and waiting for everyone to get their basics sorted gives some time to sit outside and to observe the airport life and to breath in the warm and fragrant Malagasy air.

Observing the airport porters is fun. Help is at hand if you need some with your luggage. And also if you don’t. There are some very active porters aggressively helping tourists and they come in herds. I guess now is the time to get some hefty tips before the tourists get an understanding of the costs and the level of tipping in the new city. Porters are happy to suggest a rate, which is easily ten times what would be the actual norm. Understandably the porters mainly go for the tourists just arriving.

2CV as a Taxi!

Our Madagascar experience starts from the first contacts with the locals at the service counters, porters and with our driver, who took us to our hotel in an impressive classic 1970’s Volkswagen Kleinbus. This Kleinbus was not something that would have been restored as a novelty for the hotel but a working vehicle.

The city is like an automobile museum of a kind, particularly if you like French classics such as Citroen 2CVs and Renault 4s. A number of older Peugeots as well. Should you fancy a ride in one of those, it’s easy since they are virtually all taxis!

Citroen 2cv taxi Antananarivo
Citroen 2cv taxi in Antananarivo

Our hotel is modern and comfortable. The arrival beers from the room minibars (restaurants are already closed) and we congregate to the lobby for arrival beers and comparing first impression and making plans for exploring the city the following day.

Everyone can feel the anticipation for the coming days in the air.

Motorbiking adventure team

Madagascar and Antananarivo Facts

Madagascar is an island some 400 km off the southeast coast of Africa and the fourth largest island in the world. It is separated from the African continent by the Mosambique channel. Island’s land area is 587,041 sq km and population some 29 million. Madagascar gained independence from France in 1960, which explains the French influence. French is also widely spoken here. Malagasy is the local language though.

Tana shops

Since gaining its independence, the island has experienced political instability, including coups and violent unrest. The coup in 2009 led to five years of political deadlock, international condemnation and economic sanctions.

Vendors on the side of the street
Everyone is selling something

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Half of Madagascar – Antananarivo to Faux Cap

Well… also Taolagnaro in the east and finally Ifaty in the west.

Madagascar is actually a quite big island and it took us two weeks to ride around the southern areas starting from Antananarivo. And Off course we missed a lot, but as always, there needs to be a reason to come back again!

Join us for a ride across half the island in some 6 minutes.  First three days we are on Royal Enfield Himalayas on the often potholed tarmac and then on KTM’s 350s and 450s on the real, sandy off-road territory. There really are no proper roads in the south, sometimes only a general direction with a number of paths diverging and joining together again.

This video is really mainly showing you the terrain from a biker’s perspective but it also gives you an idea of what it is like to explore the Madagascar island.

Beautiful Madagascan Faces

What do the Malagasy and Madagascan people look like?

The answer is in the video below!

Malagasy or Madagascan?

For clarity, Google explains: “Madagascan is more appropriate when referring to the (geographical) origin or location of something (e.g., species) / someone. Malagasy on the other hand refers to more cultural or ethnic issues. E.g., everyone living in Madagascar is Madagascan but not all of them are Malagasy.”

Malagasy is also the language spoken by the madagascan people on Madagascar.

East Cambodian Video Diary

How about joining us for the tour around the east Cambodia, east of lake Tonle Sap. There is an earlier video about the west, when we did it like the locals do on a scooter.

This is a “homevideo” for the three of us who were there but if you would like to know what the trip was like and/or are planning anything similar, please enjoy watching the film!

 

East Cambodian Motorbiking Adventure

Destination: East of Tonle Sap Lake

Riding route east cambodia
Route

After my solo adventure in Northern Thailand, it was time to join a couple of friends for a ride in eastern Cambodia. Just last year I did the west side of the Tonle Sap Lake “Like the locals do” and now it was time for the eastern side.

Now We Were Three Starting from Rayong

Three men outside infront of a building looking down

For this ride we were now three guys starting from Rayong in Thailand. It is always nice to ride solo but it is also great to ride with good company.

Our starting point will be Rayong by the Siam bay, just under 200 km south-east from Bangkok. The distance from Rayong to Khlong Yai Border checkpoint / Koh Kong in Cambodia is some 260 km. To get to our starting point in Rayong, I flew from Chiang Mai to Suvarnabhumi airport, where I met one of my buddies, Petri, whose plane from Finland landed roughly the same time as mine from Chiang Mai. From the airport we continued by taxi to Rayong to meet the third adventurer, Severi, at his condo.

Yamaha FZ1 1000cc

Yamaha FZ1 1000cc
Yamaha FZ1 1000cc

Things started to look interesting when we decided that I would ride Severi’s spare bike, a Yamaha FZ1 1000 cc. To me FZ1 is a really feisty, high revving plastic bullet. This is a bike I would deem not suitable for the expected circumstances in Cambodia at all! I was thinking more like CRF 300 would be better there. My mind was more in Myanmar and Laos jungle roads and previous year’s Cambodian slippery dirt roads. The bike had also been standing for a good number of covid-years years and we were not sure how it would perform on the road again.

If I were to end up on the red clay roads in the rain with the FZ1, the prospects were daunting. We had no idea what the roads would be like and the plan was to ride along the infamous Death road in the east. Severi knew the old roads well form the past, but those memories were about a decade ago, and as we all know, Asia is developing at warp-speed! The development in Cambodia is so fast that it is virtually futile asking anyone about the conditions unless they have actually been on the road within the last month.

Starting off on two bikes

The plan was to take two bikes across to Cambodia and to hire a third bike from Phnom Penh. Severi had a Honda 500x and I had Petri on the pillion to start with on the FZ1.

Pristine Thai road
Pristine Thai road to the border

Continue reading East Cambodian Motorbiking Adventure

… that elusive day we keep putting good things off to…